r-anne-dom

February 26, 2023

Tutorial - SWAPs Bag (Revisited 2023)

I revisited my original SWAPs bag tutorial and decided a rewrite was in order.

Here it is.

This SWAPs bag was made from a vintage Canadian Girl Guide Uniform Blouse as pictured here:

except I used a 3rd pocket flap from another blouse.

Materials needed:
- uniform blouse
- alternate fabric for lining (optional)
- 3 zippers
- thread, scissors and other sewing related items.

To start, cut the following pieces:
(A - Lining) 1 - 20" x 8" from alternate fabric (can also use uniform)
(B - Inside) 1 - 20" x 8" from uniform
(C - Outside Pockets) 1 - 17" x 8" from uniform
(I used 2 pieces 9"x8" and sewed them together for 17"x8")
(Inside Pocket) 1 - 6" x 8" from uniform
(Pocket Tops) 3 - 2" x 8" from uniform
3 pocket flaps from uniform(s) (preferred method is to remove stitching so you'll be re-stitching them the same way)

Instructions:

1. Using piece B - Inside, mark the centre line (as shown by 2 pins in photo below).

2. Position the 3 pocket flaps on one half of B - Inside, as shown above.

Ensure that you leave approximately 1" allowance from the centre pins/markings, and approximately 1.5" allowance from the top/end.

3. Stitch the pocket flaps into place.

I copied how the original flaps had been sewn to the uniform.

In the photo above, I first sewed them flipped up.

Then, in the photo below, I sewed again on the right side.

If that confuses you, just sew them in place as above.

Next, take the Inside Pocket piece and one of the Pocket Tops.

4. Attach the zipper as shown below.

How I attached the zipper: right sides together, edges even, I stitched a seam on each side of the zipper. Then I turned the fabric over and top-stitched both sides of the zipper.

5. Position the completed inside pocket on piece B - Inside as shown below, leaving approximately 1" or more allowance from the centre you marked earlier.

6. Turn under the top of the pocket and the bottom of the pocket. Pin into place.

Below is a close up of the pocket now pinned into place (red pins).

7. Sew pocket into place.

I chose to use a magnet closure for this bag. I did not want the "backside" of the closure showing - I wanted to hide it inside the lining. So I added it now. I applied a small patch of interfaced fabric from the uniform to the wrong side of B - Inside at both ends to reinforce the magnet closure. I made sure the magnet was at least 1/2" to 1" from the edge for a seam allowance.

If you choose to use velcro to close your bag, it can be added at the very end, or you can add it now, similar to this.

Below shows the completed magnet closures.

We are now finished with B - Inside, until we sew it all together.

Next we'll be using C - Outside Pockets, and the remaining 2 Pockets Tops.

You'll see that mine are 2 pieces sewn together (where the 4 pins are since I was too lazy to press the seam open).

8. Attach the 2 zippers at each end as shown below.

(My zippers are long, but they'll work)

Again, when attaching the zippers, with right sides together, edges even, I stitched a seam on each side of each zipper. Then I turned the fabric over and top-stitched both sides of each zipper.

9. Pin A - Lining to the back of C - Outside Pockets. This is the lining for inside the large pockets, so ensure that the "right" side of your fabric is against the "wrong" side of the pockets. This way, when you look inside the pockets, you'll see your lovely fabric. (photo above shows pinning at top and bottom)

Next step:

There are 2 options.

(a) you can use double wide double fold bias tape to finish off the outside perimeter of your bag (if you prefer this, skip to Step 16).

(b) for my bag, I sewed all layers together and turned them right side out, as follows ...

10. With right sides together and using a 1/2" seam allowance, pin B - Inside Pockets to the 2 layers of [C - Outside Pockets and A - Lining] around the perimeter.

11. Be sure to leave an opening to turn it right side out!!

12. Sew around the perimeter, leaving an opening.

13. Turn right side out.

14. Top stitch close to the edge, all the way around, closing the opening.

15. Admire your work!!

I use the flaps to showcase pins I have as SWAPs,
and the different pockets for Keepers and Traders.

BIAS TAPE

Step 16. If you chose to use bias tape around the perimeter, pin the bias tape around the bag, raw edges together.

Sew into place.
Now, fold the bias tape over, and topstitch it into place.

If you have ANY suggestions to improve this tutorial, please feel free to leave a comment.
I read them all!

Have fun!!!

p.s. go ahead: ask me why I added that cute little Trefoil badge to the bag I was making! 😁
Did I accidently cut a small hole in the fabric and have to patch it??
Will I even admit it if I did such a silly thing?!?!
😁

November 13, 2020

Tutorial: Marble Maze

DIY Marble Maze

Tutorial
Marble Maze

Materials:

- 2 coordinating pieces of fabric

- marble or similar sized bead

Below is the pattern I made for the marble mazes I made.

I have seen them in varying sizes depending on need and recipient.

Mine were for a long term care facility so I wanted them large enough that the seniors would be able to use them and not lose them.

Cut 1 from each of your fabrics.

With right sides together, pin all sides, leaving a space to turn it right side out after sewing.

Sew all around (except for the space you left open!).

Trim your corners for less bulk in the corners when turned right side out.

Turn right side out.

Note the opening in the photo below, for the marble or bead.

Insert the marble or bead now.

LOL - full disclosure - on my first one, I forgot!

And sewed up that opening before I added the marble. Oops!

Learn from me! Insert it now. :)

Now sew all around the outer edge, as close as you can get, closing up the opening along the way.

I like to start and finish at the opening so that it has a double stitch.

Now you get to draw the maze!!

These are the 2 I used.

I have seen some that are very simplistic.

And some that have "dead" spaces where the marble or bead cannot access.

How you design yours is up to you.

I also designed mine so the marble or bead would be very easy to maneuver.

If you want yours to be tighter, you will need to make the lines closer together, so moving the marble or bead is more difficult.

So now you need to transfer the maze pattern to the fabric.

Hmmm.

For this one, I laid the pattern over top, and by folding and checking, I made pencil dots at all the ends of stitches, and corners, to guide me as I stitched.

It wasn't the best method!!

Then I learned - and I punched tiny holes at those same points.

And used the holes to make the pencil marks on the fabric.

The pencil marks will wash out, but chalk might be a better bet.

For dark fabric, I coloured over the holes with a white piece of chalk.

Now, stitch the maze lines.

Move the marble or bead out of your way as you go.

Here are 2 completed mazes using my maze designs.

Here is the dark side of each one.

I used a contrasting thread to show the design.

No, I'm lying. ☺

I used a contrasting thread because it was in the bobbin and I hate changing the bobbin spools!! LOL

So that's it!!

Would make a great project for community service!

Useful for all ages.

Take care.

Stay well.

March 23, 2020

Tutorial: Carpet Bag for 18 Inch Dolls

DIY Carpet Bag for 18 inch dolls

Tutorial
Carpet Bag for 18 Inch Dolls or similar sized dolls

I actually made this particular carpet bag for a topsy turvy doll I made for a lovely lady who is a fan of Anne of Green Gables. As I was preparing to make it, I realized it would be the perfect size for an 18 inch doll so I quickly made notes and took photos so I could do a tutorial. Sadly I never thought to take a photo of the finished carpet bag with my 18 inch doll.

I used upholstery sample pieces of fabric for my carpet bag.

I tried to choose colours that would most resemble a carpet, thus the term carpet bag.

Materials:

- 2 coordinating pieces of fabric

(see photo for measurements, though if you read through the tutorial, you'll see that you can use a smaller piece for the upper portion of the bag)

- medium-large button

- cording or leather for handles

(I used macrame cording)

- fabric or leather scraps for the squares that cover the ends of the handles

Below are the original dimensions that I used for my carpet bag.

I ended up adjusting the top portion of my bag so probably could have used 2 pieces that were 3.5 instead of 4.5 inches wide. Please see my photos below to see if that will work for you.

Here are my 3 pieces laid out.

With right sides together, sew the 2 seams.

Then, top stitch so that the seam lies flat.

Pin the side seams.

Sew the side seams.

Take the bottom corners and flatten them so that they look like the below.

This will provide boxed corners.

Sew across the corners.

Turn the bag right side out.

Fold the top edge to the inside.

This is where I folded a LOT to the inside. I probably could have cut less fabric but I was winging it at the time, and documenting as I went along, so no do-overs! :)

Here you can see I've folded over quite a bit.

If you'd like, sew that top seam now.

I tend to combine steps if possible so you'll see I do the top seam and handles in one step.

You don't have to!

Sew the handles in place now.

Place the squares over the ends of the handles.

I had hoped to have scraps of leather to use but didn't have any, so I just used the same fabric as the top of the bag. I think it would have looked better with a contrasting leather square instead.

Sew the squares in place.

As with all handles, I sewed the box and the X to provide maximum durability for the handles.